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Retro Go-Go Resin Jewelry Tutorial

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Retro Go-Go Resin Jewelry Tutorial

Some time ago some Facebook followers wanted me to share the tutorial for a pink go-go resin pendant I posted. It has taken me many months but I finally got round to writing up the instructions for these easy and fun retro designs. I tried not to use those really bright colors favored during the 60's. So you could say, these are modernized to suit our different tastes today. This is the third resin jewelry tutorial I've done using stickers (see links below for the other two).

What You Need :

Shrink plastic such as Shrinky Dinks
Flat stickers
Round or oval paper punches of different sizes (I used some of my own, some were courtesy of Little Windows)
2 part epoxy resin (I used Brilliant Resin, courtesy of Little Windows)
paint, markers, mica powder
something to protect your surface - wax paper or silicon mats used by bakers.
600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (optional)
plastic lids as dust covers while the resin is curing. I like telling my family Ferraro Rocher chocolate boxes are absolutely vital for my resin jewelry making (snigger)

I like using shrink plastic because it is a non-porous and rigid surface. If you are into recycling, some cleaned produce containers is a good alternative source of plastic. You could also use paper or card but these must be sealed first with paint or varnish.

It is much easier to punch the inner hole first. The larger punch can then be positioned exactly to form the go-go shape.

Flat stickers are recommended. I actually used puffy ones for the pink pendant and found the resin could not flow to the edges as easily.

You can any kind of resin. But I recommend you choose a low bubble producer like Ice Resin or the colorless Brilliant Resin. You can read why I prefer Brilliant Resin here.

It is very hard to see the markings on the little plastic cups. So you have 2 options. The first method is to use a marker pen and mark where the level needs to be. Doing it by weight works for me! Notice the silicon mat that I make. Silicon surfaces means you can easily peel off the accidental resin drops after it cures. I also use ordinary wax paper.

There are many ways to color resin (see this past post). I used pink mica powder for the original pendant. Just add enough to get a translucent or solid color - whichever you like.

I used acrylic paint markers to color the earrings.

This project also allowed me to test out Little Window's white resin colorant which I received for review against ordinary white oil paint. Both worked. However, the oil paint drops were streaky to begin with and needed a lot more stirring to mix it all in. This is not surprising as it wasn't designed for resin work!

The transparent earrings were easily done by not bothering to add any color! When applying the resin, do it on a silicon mat. Better yet, invest in a doming tray. I bought mine from Little Windows a long time ago and find it useful. The silicon one is better because the spilled resin can be peeled off later. While the accidents on my plastic ones are stuck forever!

So it is matter of doming one side, and then letting it cure (at least 24 hours) before flipping over and adding stickers. Then dome the remaining side with resin. Always cover curing resin otherwise dust might land on your work. This is very important if you live in a carpeted house!

It doesn't really matter which you do first. But I preferred to do the colored side at the back first. Then I could see which sticker to choose. BTW, don't use the square punches unless you create a large enough space at the top to punch a hole for a jump ring.

If your edges are slightly rough, you can wet some 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper and use it to make them smooth.

And there you have it! 1960's inspired go-go resin jewelry. I didn't bother to punch any holes. The right size jump rings sufficed.

Disclosure
I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.

Photography
I used natural light my iPhone 6S with the camera+ app and the Modahaus TS320 tabletop studio and the Steady Stand (medium) for the final design photos. To get the graduated grey backgrounds , I put the black sheet behind the white. The white necklace is suspended from a Modahaus Steady Stand. The tutorial pictures were taken with artificial light in my windowless basement studio. Check out my How to Photograph Jewelry Webinar

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